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The Most Inspiring Recipes from Your Favorite Chefs America the Great Cookbook by Joe Yonan “With charcuterie, instead of chewing on a steak, you get that delicate, buttery, melt-in-your mouth experience.”Įach of the book's six chapters begins with excerpts from the likes of Pablo Neruda, Mary Oliver, and Philip Levine, and the book ends with one of Leigh’s own poems:ĭoes it work? Like salt on pork. “It’s something I learned from vegetarians who don’t like the texture of meat,” she says. Leigh is also conscientious of meat’s thorny issues-environmental and moral, to name two-and sees cured meats as a way of shifting the protein paradigm.
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" Our lives are an asymmetry of raw materials, plus a little fuss, mostly adding up to an exquisite suspension," Leigh writes, using poetry to convey charcuterie’s economy of ingredients and precision of technique. This one delves into the soulfulness of charcuterie, drawing parallels between cuisine and human experience, and marrying technical, practical, juicy food information with beauty. Leigh’s first book, The Ethical Meat Handbook, was a treatise on butchery that deftly explored the life, death, and processing of animals. Farmer, chef, teacher, mother, activist, and writer Meredith Leigh has penned a profound how-to that’s equally at home in the larder or on the nightstand beside collections of verse by Tracy K. Others live in the kitchen, their stained pages a pragmatic guide to what’s for dinner. Avila is like an abstract expressionist who views the tortilla as a canvas for infinite creative possibilities. The table of contents in Guerrilla Tacos should give you a sense of the glories you’ll find inside: lobster taco, roasted pumpkin taco, oxtail taco, pig head taco, mushroom taco, eggplant taco, pork belly and caviar taco, razor clam tostada, breakfast burrito, Santa Barbara sea urchin scramble. I already know which two cookbooks I’ll be turning to this winter as I try to teleport myself back to that place where there is warm sunshine and good salsa: Guerrilla Tacos: Recipes from the Streets of L.A., from taco-truck wizard Wesley Avila and collaborator Richard Parks III and Bäco: Vivid Recipes from the Heart of Los Angeles, from chef Josef Centeno and collaborator Betty Hallock.Īvila and Centeno are very different chefs, even though both are associated with downtown L.A., and they’ve published very different books. In our more wistful moments, we dream of tacos. We Southern Californians mutter our way through months of black ice, snowdrifts, and dirty slush in New York and Boston and Chicago, cursing ourselves for having been led astray.
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If you happen to have grown up in Los Angeles, as I did, winters in other parts of the country can be tough.